connector block View larger

connector block / connecting rail 4-pole


New product

NEW for 2021

fits above the flywheel 

holds the 4 wires from the ignition

More details

19 Items

£ 12.00

More info

if your old unit is missing, cracked, filthy (might short ignition to be weak spark) or seized up?

the old clamp screws are exactly 4mm wide screwdriver heads, will come out with downward pressure and a good tip

if you are cutting wires to remove old one, ensure there is at least 10mm spare and you cut close to the old block as possible

the 2 fitting screws are often hard to remove with a bad fitting screwdriver so clean out the grooves with a blade/pin forst then use one with a 6mm width for best chance, or break or/drill/retap with new screws M3x20 (not included)

fitting the new unit:

please ensure each wire is clean metal (greased copper or soldered copper end) and no stray filaments

i reccomend you WD40 the whole socket or grease before or after install, as it arrives new and clean which wont last decades on a saltwater boat (probably as you found it never had the oil it needed?)

original convention as follows:

(wires come from the port side and your remote switch wires enter from starboard side - see pic)

  1. yellow wire (this is usually mounted forward)
  2. yellow wire
  3. black wire (points/LT wire) - connect to 4 to 'kill# sparks and stop engine running
  4. green/blue wire (this is a short 30mm wire to an obvious screw outside the crankcase (Kill-ground)

the black wire going inside the crankcase id the 'kill' wire, you touch it to the engine to stop. ive seen 2 mistakes regarding wiring this 

  • wrong - linking the kill wire to battery earth rather than the top connector 'kill ground), your ignition will catch fire if you crank the engine with a loose battery earth and the kill switch operating, so dont do it
  • wrong - the kill switch is a 2-position toggle switch, this will accidentally be left in the 'kill' (connecting) position and you will potentially flood the engine with petrol unti you realise it (flooding a 2 stroke engine is very hard to restart). instead use a spring button / switch that only operates when pressed and automatically releases.

the yellow wires are obsolete, they were in the vire 6 for pull start engines with no 12v battery and the fishermen in finland wanted navigation lamps , it gives out AC approx 6v only if the correct load of 5w lamps in circuit so practically useless if you have a 12v battery. i do think they might be useful for running an RPM guage one day but so keep them!

also, be mindful that when you connect 3, it should be easily disconectable in future for diagnostic purposes (salt inside a kill switch) so, dont do it up too tight and inaccesible. some owners wisely put a short 30mm length of wire into 3 then a quick connector they can part/rejoin easily for diagnostics.

if you have a weak or no spark concern, the frst thing you should do, is remove the remote wire going into 3, if you then see an improved spark, you know your kill switch is internally shorting, which is common after decades of salt air if someone mounted it in the cockpit without protective rubber hood?

anyway, chances are that your old unit has screws seizing up and dirt and paint make it rather less good looking and servicable than this new original you could replace it with during a rebuild/tidyup, even if it has not yet caused a short?