ignition points , contact set

points bosch (July 2017 non-bosch equivalent)

ONE SET (Quality checked mirror-finish)OF:

Vire 6/7/12 points or "contact set" . Bosch OEM platinum tipped.

i reccommend you order a spare second set if you havent any - see my twin set item

bosch stopped producing these years ago, but i have some new pairs left in stock. These are the original and best and only points you should fit on a Vire marine engine.

Note, these are tricky to fit(remove flywheel) and susceptible to getting corroded, so I am now checking the faces are perfect mirror finish.

the critical thing to check, is the faces are mirror finish like platinum gives you (so dont corrode in salt air), and the closed-resistance is low.

even if your points look 'ok', if the resistance is more than 1 ohm, they are not giving you full spark and may give none without notice suddenly.

If your points are pitted at all they need replacing, If they look grey not shiny they need replacing, If you are rebuilding the engine obviously.

To illustrate this, I was called out to an erratic Vire 7 in Keyhaven Hanpshire 2008, after installing a dynastart because this engine was a pain to pull-start i noted the points were un-pitted/flat and correct gap but grey. The engine started and ran fine with bright blue spark while i was there, and the following day the owner ran her to the IOW and on return the engine wouldnt start and he discover no spark at all, not even a pulse on the ht to his finger (i wouldnt reccomend testing that way!) I returned to fault find the following day, and again the points were correct gap and clean and flat/ no grit imbetween, spark blue and looked ok but sometimes dissapeared, sometimes fine??? well i tested the resistance with my meter, and it was erratic but often more than 1 ohm, so we fitted new points, and it has never died since. Thats why i say if they are not shiny or less than 1 ohm replace.

to check resistance in situ, connect multimeter ohms reading between the 2 non-yellow wires on crankcase terminals(earth and points). ensure kill switch is off and HT disconnected temporarily. rotate engine by hand till you get lowest reading, then read ohms, and subtract the reading you get when you short the meter's leads - thats your points resistance! Anything higher than an ohm is trouble!

Note: Early Vire 6 engines have a brass points pivot pin and circlip, but this is easily unscrewed and discarded for standard point like these.

dont buy unless you are genuine about paying and collecting within a week or have already contacted me regarding shipping costs etc.

this is avaialable immediately.

changing for your old unit is simple, 15 mins est.work, make sure you have:

{

13mm and 17mm spanners to remove belt

6mm allen key or screwdriver to remove pulley cover

24mm socket wrench or spanner to remove flywheel nut

THE correct VIRE puller (normal 3 leg puller may damage coil)

lump hammer to encourage flywheel release into puller bolt.

flat screwdriver to release points

4BA spanners or couple of pairs of long nose pliers to unbolt wires

WD40 for interior

16-17thou feeler guage to set gap

clean strips of card(use enclosed box) to rub imbetween closed point's tips(makes sure no WD40 or grit imbetween)

spark plug removal tool and long screwdriver to find and set TDC

strobe lamp or multimeter(as resistance test) to find timing/firing point for check/adjust baseplate afterwards

open ended spanner to jam flywheel spoke from rotating - to engine part/mounting during torque-up

torque wrench for 24mm nut(about 40lb.ft plus rotate tighter till cover and allen screws would line up again) - (personally i do them up hand tight, then hammer the spanner end round a further 1/8th turn - which is a lot easier in a boat!)

}